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Long, Easy Routes: Climbing the States’ Tallest Bolted Moderates, in Washington



Feature, Climbing Magazine. Goat Wall in Mazama, Washington, contains the tallest, easiest rock climbs in the United States. I travelled to Washington to climb the routes and learn the story of the people that developed them.


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Daniel Woods Spent a Month Alone in the Desert to Send the First US V17, He Came Back a Different Person



Interview, Climbing.com. I spoke to Daniel Woods following his ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker, now the hardest boulder problem in the Western Hemisphere. Daniel opened up about how giving up smoking, alcohol and caffeine and spending time alone in the desert changed his perspective.


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The Process



Accidents, Climbing.com. How do you learn from an accident when you don't know what happened? After a climber fell 30 feet from the top of a gym wall and impacted the ground 10 feet behind me, I share guidelines to help climbers stay safe in any situation.


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Researchers Prove 80-Percent Ethanol Liquid Chalk Kills Coronavirus on Surfaces



News, Climbing.com. While it had long been speculated that liquid chalk, with its high-ethanol content, could be effective at killing the SARS-CoV-2 virus. Ross Kedl, a climber and scientist, and his colleagues teamed up with Friction Labs to find out


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An Ode to Traverses



Column, Climbing.com. Climbing is generally assumed to be an upward sport. You start at the bottom and the route ends when you reach the top. That’s certainly one way of going about it, but I’ve also discovered the joys of climbing sideways.


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Matt Segal on His Life as a Pro Climber and Entrepreneur



Interview, Climbing.com. As Matt Segal says, "Nobody’s a professional climber forever." I spoke to Segal about his uncommon career arc, from jetsetting sponsored athlete to running his own instant coffee company.


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Review: Scarpa Mescalito Approach Shoe



Gear, Climbing Magazine. Following time spent testing the shoe on Yosemite granite, I provide readers with a rundown of the premium Scarpa approach shoe.


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Why I Won’t Be First in Line to Return to Climbing Gyms



Opinion, Climbing.com. While information and recommendations have since evolved, in May 2020 climbing gyms began reopening against the advice of the scientific community. I analyzed the available information to provide a rational look at the situation.


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Learn This: Effective Multipitch Communication



Skills, Climbing Magazine. When communication breaks down between you and your partner during a multi-pitch route, you’ve got a problem. I spoke with IFMGA guide Eli Helmuth to outline a plan to prevent communication issues before they start.


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